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Traveling to Astoria along the slow and scenic route

Astoria is the oldest townsite west of the Rockies, and the area is full of history worth exploring — especially along the nearby byways.

ASTORIA, Ore. — I never tire of traveling Oregon’s backroads and finding new adventures, like the byway that reaches the nation’s oldest townsite west of the Rockies: Astoria, Oregon. It's the right site for history, adventure and dining — a place where you’ll find remarkable adventures.

Perhaps try exploring the towering Astoria Column, the historic downtown Liberty Theatre or the Columbia River Maritime Museum. Along the town’s waterfront, Astoria Brewing offers something good to choose from for dining or imbibing.

Outdoor recreation is also easy to find, and highflyers will get a kick from zip lines at High Life Adventures near Warrenton, while the black powder demonstration at Fort Clatsop National Memorial, the winter home for the Lewis and Clark Corps of Discovery back in 1805, will always draw your attention.

“It is the oldest U.S. settlement west of the Rockies,” noted local historian Paulette McCoy. “That’s truly part of bragging rights and it is also the beauty of the Columbia River meeting up with the Pacific Ocean.”

The Columbia River’s early days come alive when you join lifelong local Mark Schacher aboard his “Arrow,” a refurbished working boat that tours Astoria’s waterfront.

“Astoria’s reputation is bigger than itself," said Schacher. “It’s always been that way! It’s just a small town of 10,000 people but everybody’s heard of it. I just like history. I just like what people did and how they did it and how hard they had to work to make a living back then. It was a lot more interesting time, in my opinion.

Those interesting times are easy to come by when you travel south and east of Astoria and Warrenton, skirting the Youngs River estuary on State Highway 202.

Astoria’s backdoor byway unwinds a slow and scenic adventure into the area’s earliest days, like the short hike down a worn path to reach Youngs River Falls. Named for a British naval officer in 1792, it’s a whopper that’s worth a pause.

So is the nearby Wildlife Center of the North Coast; it’s just 9 miles from town. It is a trauma ward for birds on the brink – the ones that won’t make it without a helping hand:

“We are the only wildlife rehabilitation center on the Oregon coast and the only rehab center in Oregon that can take in and care for sea birds. A resource that’s unique to this area.”

Special guided tours can be arranged and an open house the first weekend in May allows you a visit.

While just down the road, cruise in for some rest and relaxation of your own in Olney, Oregon.

“The most important thing to remember,” said Olney Saloon and General Store owner, Dale Searls, "we are the only place on Highway 202. Welcome to Olney!

Olney was founded in Oregon’s early days by Cyrus Olney – one of the state’s first supreme court justices. He established a townsite on the Youngs River in the late 1800s. But one hundred years ago, the highway was built and the town moved closer to it. The Olney Saloon and General Store followed.

“We are not fast food, we cook everything to order – burgers, wraps, mac and cheese and we have specials," said Searls. "We try to mix it up so you don’t get bored.”

“It really is a nice scenic drive,” added Searls. “A good excuse to get off Highway 26 with all the hubbub and maybe slow down a little bit. It’s definitely easier on your brain and your heart and less stressful.”

Highway 202 is a backroad byway that, once traveled, you’ll never want to leave — and it’s waiting for you anytime.

Be sure to watch the weekly half-hour program of Grant’s Getaways. The show airs each Saturday and Sunday at 4 p.m. on KGW.

For something different, you can follow my Oregon adventures via the Grant’s Getaways Podcast: Each segment is a story-telling session where I relate behind the scenes stories from four decades of travel and television reporting.

You can also learn more about many of my favorite Oregon travels and adventures in the Grant’s Getaways book series, including:

The book collection offers hundreds of outdoor activities across Oregon and promises to engage a kid of any age.

You can reach me: Gmcomie@kgw.com

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