PORTLAND, Ore. – For many, Memorial Day weekend is the traditional kick-off to grilling season. You’ll note I did not say barbecuing season, for they are very different methods.

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Grilling is the typical backyard setup with gas or charcoal. True barbecue is an all-day -- and sometimes longer – process of cooking the meat slowly over low heat.

So while many will pat out the burgers and roll on the dogs, a select few of the dedicated, hardcore carnivores will be perfecting the rub and laying on the hickory chips.

This rib recipe is a bit of both. The meat can be cooked slowly over a low heat (around 200-250) grill – but that takes a lot of maintenance over about a three-four hour period. The coals have to be constantly re-raked, lit and burned down in a separate can (or grill) to maintain temperature.

I’ll explain a simpler way here in a minute.

First, the rub.

This is for about 3-4 pounds, I usually do two racks of baby back pork, but works for beef too. Mix about three cups of brown sugar with a teaspoon of mustard powder, one of onion powder, a couple tablespoons of cayenne (depending on your fondness for hot) and a dash of salt and cracked pepper. Put this all in a plastic or tight paper bag and shake it up to mix evenly. You’ll either rub this on the ribs or drop the slabs in the bag to get them thickly covered. I prefer to let them sit refrigerated in the rub for at least three hours. Overnight, however, is too long.

Then for the quicker way, warm the oven to 200 degrees. Put the ribs on a broiler pan or a shallow pan with a rack and cook for three-and-a-half hours – no sauce yet!

When there’s about a half hour left on the oven, prepare the grill. It can be done on a gas grill, but I prefer charcoal. Once the coals are going, wrap a couple handfuls of (wet) hickory chips into some tinfoil. Just roll them up and leave the ends open. Place them on the grill next to the coals or flame, but not directly over the heat and cover the grill.

Now it’s time for the meat. Get your favorite barbecue sauce and a brush. Put a couple of layers on the meat and they’re ready for the grill.

The ribs will need constant attention from here since you don’t want the sauce to burn too much. Continue to baste and flip when they appear caramelized. Beware: the ribs do not need a lot of time on the grill, this is the quickest part and I usually end up taking them off in about 5-7 minutes.

Now you’re ready to feast – I guarantee they will all disappear in minutes.